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https://www.antiqueradios.com/features/lacquer.html
Ralph: This is the basic method I use for refinishing my cabinets.
I say basic, because I change things a bit . I don’t use wood chips.
I use a strong commercial stripper——$80.00 a gallon. I want to get ALL the old finish off.
The heavy stripper is used when the old finish is on pretty good. Usually I use the 50-50 mixture of lacquer thinner and acetone
for stripping. I do this in the summer ,outside in the garage.
I can usually get five to seven console radios done in the summer, depending on how much wood repair I have to do.I guess it is a personal preference on what you use to strip the cabinets, but I have never scraped the cabinets,
and I don’t sand them either.
Each to his own. Here are a couple of photos of one RCA radio
DanMorning Andrew
Thanks for your reply. I still have not started the rewind, as I have too many other projects in the works at this time. A Westinghouse W780Y, a Marconi Model 51, and of course my DeForest Crosley 6D531. All for complete restoration. Sometimes, as they say, I bite off more than I can chew. Anyway am getting closer to doing the actual re-winding process.I will set up my apparatus and take a few pictures to give you an idea of what and how my process and apparatus works.This may take a few days, but I wll get to it. I really like the mechanical counter I use, as it is very accurate at higher speeds. I do not usually operate at higher speeds, as I am afraid that, sometimes… “Haste makes Waste” I picked up this counter at Princess Auto, for around $20.00.
I would also appreciate knowing your method when it comes to determining the number of turns required for the B+ winding(s). I gotta get it right the first time around.
Regards
Those first few pics show the set-up I rigged up for my DeWalt 18Volt Portable Drill. It does not look to professional but it works flawlessly. And the mechanical counter works just fine. For now I have just taped a metal bracket to the drill and taped the counter into position, so that each revolution of the drill trips the counter and registers it as one turn. I feed the winding wire by hand, with the supply spool placed on beneath the Bobbin on the floor. Note that the spool sits on a weighted holder. This prevents the spool from tpping over during the winding process. Some of those supply spools have a square end and a round end. Always set the spool round side up to prevent snags which can happen with square side up. Using this method you will need a couple of straps to tie the base of the drill down so that it does not move around or flop over. As you only have two hands, you will need one to control the trigger/switch on the drill while you feed the winding wire on to your Bobbin with the other hand. Make certain the sides of your Bobbin are wide enough so you can prevent your winding wire from spilling over and getting snagged on either the chuck side of the Bobbin or the other side. a situation you don’t want to find your self in.
NOTE: Should you use the same counter I use, (from Princess Auto) never thy to reverse your drill, This will break the counter. If you need to reverse the drill direction to remove a number of wiring turns by means of the drill, design your Bobbin so that the threaded rod which fits into the drill chuck, protrudes on either side of the Bobbin. Then should you need to reverse the direction of the drill. all you need to do is release your Bobbin axel from the drill and flip it over, placing the other side of the rod axel into the chuck. Also secure the sides of the Bobbin with two nuts on either side, using that second nut as a lock nut to insure that the vibrations do not allow the sides to become loose and ruin your job. I speak from experience on this one. And Oh yes, before you start winding make certain you have a fully charged battery, you don’t want to be changing batteries mid-way through the winding procedure.
I will make a second Post beneath this one to explain some of the upgrades I have planned for my winding machine.
I hope this information will benefit yourself and others
Regards
Ralph
OK Andrew
As I said on my other Post, I have plans to ugrade my winding aparatus. A few weeks back I picked up at the Habitat ReStore, a “Wolfcraft Drill Press Stand” for just six dollars. It is used with an electric drill to power it. It normaly sits in a vertical position requiring just one weighted stand, However I have discovered that this machine will work fine, with a few minor changes and adaptions to be used, along with my Dewalt drill, to be more efficient as a transformer winder.
I am also looking for a sewing machine motor and foot pedal which I could adapt to it. That would do away with using the drill for power. The great thing about that is, that it will be a winding machine that’s always ready to go. It can also operate to turn quite slow or faster by means of the foot pedal. There is also a adjustment on the Drill Press so as I can adjust the carry from Left to right or from Right to Left, to match the width of any winding. And there is also a lever on it that I will be able to use to more evenly control the the closeness of the winding across the Bobbin. This can and will make the winding more uniform and save valuable winding space, so that when I re-assemble the laminations they will go back in quite easily.
Will keep you Posted.Ralph
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Winding Machine
Normally I would have posted this in “Show & Tell”, but being that it is related to my transformer project, I have decided to post it here.
I went out yesterday snooping around the Sally Anne Thrift Shop, I was really looking for a cheap Antique Sewing Machine, with Motor and foot pedal. It was my lucky day. I found one. It was marked for $25.95. However it was discount day and I walked away with it for $13.00. It was already mounted n a heavy home made base.Anyway, today I tackled it. First I tested it. It was OK. So I pulled the motor, cleaned it up and mounted it on my Drill press stand, as shown in a previous post. It just screwed to the existing bracket without any modification. and with a little adjustment it lined up, right on centre with the drill chuck shaft. All I have to do now is make a reduction collar 1/4 x 3/8 to connect the motor shaft to the shaft on the chuck. Notice that on the drill chuck is a stainless hose bracket, with the end turned up so that it strikes the lever on the counter on each revolution, which equals one complete turn on the Bobbin for the new winding. I am going to install the sewing machine light on a snorkel, to light up the take-up bobbin. Also on the front of this apparatus, mounted on the base stand I will install a hand rest to steady my wrist. And also that long black handle at the top of the rig allows be to move the new Bobbin to the left or right or visa versa, so that all the right hand has to do is to control the tension on the winding wire. And Oh yes, I have cleaned up the foot pedal and painted it. And I also gave the weighted wooden base a couple of coats of walnut stain. So as they say, it is just about “All Systems Go”
Regards Ralph
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