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  • #1347
    Forum Participant

    I see and have quite a number of chassis with rust issues. It is very common, especially here on the wet coast !

    I was wondering what methods other restorers are using to combat this issue. There are a lot of different methods of rust removal from scraping to chemical etching to methods of putting chemicals to react and neutralize the rust, to using methods of electrolosis.

    I have heard of some having good results with a solution of washing soda , and a DC power source hooked to the chassis. I haven’t tried this but it sounds promising.

    What method do you use for rust removal?


    Ed Kraushar
    CVRS Member

    I have not tried the electrolytic method yet. I am more concerned with preventing the rust from returning and destroying the chassis as it will rust again unless preventative measures are used.

    For light rusting or patches I wire brush the rust off, usually with a Dremel brush. Sanding will also work. For prevention and appearance I rub on Tremclad aluminum paint. Note that I am not painting the chassis. The Tremclad is rubbed on with a cloth in minimal amounts. It is 90% dry after rubbing. This gives the chassis a clean look similar to fresh plating if done right.

    Heavy rusting gets the severe treatment. Fortunately I find that rust is mainly on the outer surface of the chassis. In this case I remove the critical parts, mask the others including the tube sockets and carefully sandblast the chassis. I then apply a spray called Rust Converter by Rust Check, available at Canadian Tire. This converts the residual rust to a black coating and acts as a primer preventing further rusting. The final finish is Grey hammertone paint.

    Not original but in my book paint trumps rust unless you have the means to replate the chassis. Some may use extensive brushing or sanding to remove the rust then use clear lacquer for prevention. This may not look original also.

    Finished Philco 51A, sandblasted, Rust Check and Hammertone paint.

    The Philco as received.


    Forum Participant

    Ed The chassis looks great!

    I have used similar steps for a few chassis, abrasion, rust mort, alcohol, grey paint.
    this is probably the most practicle approach, I haven’t wanted to remove enough to dunk the chassis in anything.

    I was experimenting with this stainless steel coating about 10 years ago. I has to be heat cured. i got it from the old car center in langley. pics of an ashtray I painted. It needs to be heated to cure the stuff. I did my engine manifold with it , and a few other parts like the rocker cover , etc. I cured some of the parts in an old oven. with the manifold it smokes like crazy and stinks for a while. I did other exhaust parts and just let them get hot and cure themselves. It has all kinds of bad warnings on the can.

    after about 10 years, manifold rusted a bit, but it is hard to keep that perfect. rocker cover etc stood up well. It doesn’t have thickness like paint so it looks a bit like anodizing. the rust pits from stripping with acid don’t get filled in like they might with paint. It’s more expensive than regular paint, but a can would do pretty much a whole exhaust system.

    by comparison, a tin box that I sprayed with one coat of spray on galvanized coating. just a spray bomb, much like paint but dull. not as tough as the stainlless coating but looks quite similar.


    Download ashtray2.jpg. (Caution: This file may not be virus scanned.)

    Download ashtray1.jpg. (Caution: This file may not be virus scanned.)

    Download SSpaint.jpg. (Caution: This file may not be virus scanned.)

    Download tinbox.JPG. (Caution: This file may not be virus scanned.)

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